There is a road here, built by two men to allow children to walk miles to school across bog and cliff face. It is beautifully crafted and it is all that remains of the crofts and villages along most of its route. Those buildings lie in the bracken like patches of fur from some road-killed animal. But the road is like its sinews, indestructable, tracing an outline on the ground when all else has rotted away.

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